I lost my Canon EOS M50 II. Basically my whole camera gear just spin off from a 3km tall mountain in Austria because I forgot to close my bag. I know…

After a month of mourning, I started to look again to the market, but It’s hard to swallow. Prices are manually kept high. Affiliate links everywhere. Old gear is not cheaper. An average smartphone can record 4k video with in-body stabilization, but if you want it in a camera then the body will cost you a fortune. Lenses are not compatible with every body, technology exists for good lenses but they keep producing trash. And I have to buy the trash because of my price range.

Moreover, firmwares are proprietary. Smartphone sync apps are limited and proprietary (As a developer it’s quite annoying, that they don’t even let me fix their issues.) The raw format is only very rarely DNG but mostly proprietary.

I could list the injustices in the world we live in all they long.

But, I miss the image quality, and I need another one. What do you think, which brand is the least like above? What do you suggest for traveling?

(The photo has been made with my phone shortly after losing my camera, sitting there sadly, but somehow the land is so quite and calming.)

  • Zak@lemmy.world
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    2 months ago

    I think the the least amount of BS from a major camera company is probably Panasonic:

    • Panasonic uses two lens mounts (micro four thirds and L-mount), both of which are shared with other body and lens manufacturers
    • Old bodies get firmware updates
    • Features are rarely artificially restricted for market segmentation
    • Third parties have written apps to talk to Panasonic cameras

    The biggest downside to the brand is that until very recently, Panasonic bodies had only contrast-detection autofocus, which can pulse if used in video and doesn’t track moving subjects very well.

    • friend_of_satan@lemmy.world
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      2 months ago

      Flying camera is the best camera I’ve bought in years. You definitely can drop it though, and you can also crash it.

      OP, if you do get a drone, get a <250g drone, because they tend to be classified as separate from heavier drones and have fewer legal restrictions.

  • Shdwdrgn@mander.xyz
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    2 months ago

    When you say old gear is not cheaper… I take it you’re looking for some pretty modern stuff? When I decided to get more involved in photography I picked up a Canon Ti4 used from ebay. It was about 6 years old at the time and I picked up a good one for around $250. The same thing with lenses, everything I have is from ebay and everything was relatively cheap (although I’d love to get one of those Sigma 600mm lenses, but oof!). Yeah my body is closer to 12 years old now but I still use it all the time and it’s done well for me, plus the EF mounts are common as hell, and all of my lenses have image stabilization built in.

    If you’re having trouble getting trash photos, maybe check back with this group on what lenses match the shots you’re trying to take? There’s definitely some garbage lenses out there, and early-on I discovered Canon’s own 300mm EF lens have two different models that look identical, but there’s a huge difference in the quality between them (which is why the good one costs twice as much, even used).

    One good thing about Canon is that you have Magick Lantern available. Most of us can’t afford the functionality that this software provides for free! If you want to stick with Canon and get the best bang for your buck, check to see which bodies ML is compatible with to narrow down your selections. After that I would check the lens mounts to see what other mounts can be adapted to fit a body to give you the widest selection of lenses possible. This is usually a one-way street due to focal length so it might pay to choose a body with greater adaptability.

    • IMALlama@lemmy.world
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      2 months ago

      Agree on older gear being cheaper. I’ve taken many a great photo on my D40 ($50-75 on MPB) and D5300 ($225-325 on MPB). Depending on the focal length desired, there are solid used F-mount lenses around for fairly cheap as well. My go-to was the AF-S Nikkor 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 G IF-ED VR, which is a FF lens, but it still isn’t that heavy. I think I got mine used for $350 10 years ago and have to imagine the price has continued to come down. There’s a lot of fast thrid and first party glass available cheap too.

      • Shdwdrgn@mander.xyz
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        2 months ago

        My best lens for capturing the sun and moon is a Canon EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6, which sounds like pretty much the same lens you have with a different mount? I found a Kenco doubler that doesn’t seem to produce any artifacts (this one goes on the back side of the lens) which has worked really well for grabbing sunspots. Wish I’d had more ambition to get out this Summer, there’s been a LOT of sunspot activity that I’ve missed.

        On the other end I have a Sigma DC 17-70mm f2.8-4 which I’ve been using for model trains. I paid $233 for that one so it’s my most expensive, but getting a faster lens really helped with those low-light shots. Sometimes you find great deals, sometimes you find Chinese garbage. Luckily I never paid much for garbage.

        • IMALlama@lemmy.world
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          2 months ago

          It sounds like the design goals Nikon and Canon were using were similar, yes. On a crop body, it’s great for capturing things far away. I used it for motorsports. It was also a good people lens, but at 110mm FF equivalent you had to have some space to use it.

          Wish I’d had more ambition to get out this Summer, there’s been a LOT of sunspot activity that I’ve missed.

          I can relate to this. Especially when it comes to reach and close focus, your gear can get in the way of the shot. I feel like a lot of this hobby is clearly identifying your use case (reach, close focus, speed, etc) and then weighing the lenses that satisfy that use case against their tradeoffs (size, weight, image quality).

          Over in e-mount land, I have Sigma’s 35mm f/1.4 (the old HSM version) and Sigma’s newer 35mm f/2.0. The extra stop is nice, but I rarely need it and f/2.0 is half the length and weight. Guess which lens gets used more often.

          Sometimes you find great deals, sometimes you find Chinese garbage. Luckily I never paid much for garbage.

          The nice thing about buying used is you can usually sell it without much of a loss. I’ve been treating this as “longer term renting” gear to help me find what I want.

  • itchick2014 [Ohio]@midwest.social
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    2 months ago

    I have been very happy with my Canon RP. Mirrorless is a lot more common now and the range of lenses offered by Canon at a variety of focal lengths and price points is substantial. I use an adapter so I can use EOS EF mount lenses which helps a lot with the cost as you can buy older lenses if you want. Also you would have less of a learning curve with the logic behind the menus since you are familiar already with a Canon camera.

  • chryan@lemmy.world
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    1 month ago

    I can only recommend what I’ve owned, so this is primarily a “here’s what I’ve used before and how I’ve used them”.

    I started with the Fuji XT2 and absolutely loved it. It was compact enough so I was always encouraged to take it around with me wherever I went. Fuji’s out-of-the-box color profiles are awesome too especially if you don’t do any post-processing.

    The physical dials feel great and really make the camera - it felt like it was made by photographers. The Fuji lenses are optically some of the best around, but can be a little pricey. The upside is that Sigma and Tamron make lenses for the X mount now (they weren’t available back then), so you have a lot more options these days! The autofocus was generally pretty slow, but the newer XT3, 4 and 5 have substantially improved on that if you’re concerned about it.

    I eventually switched to a Sony A7III because I needed better quality portraits and headshots with a full frame sensor, and I’ve also come to love Sony’s mirrorless system so far. Sony’s FE prime lenses are really good value for what you get, and are really compact for what they are.

    Sigma and Tamron also make excellent glass for E mount at a much more affordable price than Sony’s GM lenses (some at nearly equivalent quality).

    My current daily driver is a Sony A7CII (but the A7C is also really good if you want something more affordable). The reason I picked this up over the A7III was because I found myself not wanting to carry it around as much. I love street photography and the A7III’s screen didn’t articulate in a way that allowed me to shoot in the incognito way I did with the Fuji XT2.

    So far, I’ve been really surprised at how good the A7CII is, especially for how compact it is. I’ve also started using it for my portraits and headshots and haven’t missed the A7III at all.

    It’s quite an investment for any camera system (cameras and lenses), so make sure you spend time looking at the range of lenses that you want/need, and if possible rent them for a little bit to get a feel for them.

    Fuji will be the more affordable option purely because of the smaller sensor size and the lenses that go along with it, but if you’re interested in full frame quality (especially for better low light shots), then I’d recommend looking at Sony.

    Good luck with your hunt and I hope you find something that fits you perfectly!

  • Sorry about the trauma of losing your kit.

    I have bought quite a few cameras from Canon Refurbished site (I never transcended to SLR/mirrorless). Occasionally, there will be extra discounts to sweeten the deal.

    Also, there might be a very slim chance that your trip insurance or homeowner/renter policy might help ease the sting of your loss.