Until you need to print something small and accurate that is. I had to build a second 3d printer to be able to do that even with just a 0.6mm nozzle on mine. Though I might have gone just a bit too far to the other end.
Also 0.8mm nozzles need quite the hotend to be usable. The standard Creality hotend would struggle to do 0.3mm layers at 50mm/s, and even a V6 would max out at around 0.4mm layers.
question… how are you dealing with extrusion pressure on the tiny nozzle? I tried going to a .2mm and found my printer didn’t like the nozzle pressure. at all.
I’m not so sure about that. I have gone all-metal (and bimetallic) on my 3V2 for the, uh. The bit connecting the heater to the heat sink. The HEATBREAK. Right. But the heater block, sensor, heat sink are all original and they have absolutely no problem with 1.0mm, at least up to 220. I’ve done various power measurements and it’s not having to work hard to do it, either.
The other changes I’ve made to the hot end assembly have been adding more cooling, not more heat. (It’s dual fan now and has better airflow to the heatsink.)
I mean, it could all be due to the bimetallic heatbreak. But, well… 1.0mm is 100% absolutely fine on my 3V2.
So. speaking of cooling… I’ve been floating an idea around for a bit now. Ever play with an airbrush kit (like for painting minis?)
hear me out here. Imagine setting up a plennum pressure chamber fed by an airbrush compressor, then using servos or something to control conic plug valves (as in the airbrush itself.) Now, imagine something similar to a bowden tube running to the hot end from said plenum chamber… directing the air exactly where you want it.
seriously, most the weight of the hot end is now in fans. At least, for me. (heater cooler, nozzle cooler, the other nozzle cooler.)
Imagine how fast we could get with bowden-air… (yeah, I’ll have to work on that name…)
Until you need to print something small and accurate that is. I had to build a second 3d printer to be able to do that even with just a 0.6mm nozzle on mine. Though I might have gone just a bit too far to the other end.
Also 0.8mm nozzles need quite the hotend to be usable. The standard Creality hotend would struggle to do 0.3mm layers at 50mm/s, and even a V6 would max out at around 0.4mm layers.
question… how are you dealing with extrusion pressure on the tiny nozzle? I tried going to a .2mm and found my printer didn’t like the nozzle pressure. at all.
I’m not so sure about that. I have gone all-metal (and bimetallic) on my 3V2 for the, uh. The bit connecting the heater to the heat sink. The HEATBREAK. Right. But the heater block, sensor, heat sink are all original and they have absolutely no problem with 1.0mm, at least up to 220. I’ve done various power measurements and it’s not having to work hard to do it, either.
The other changes I’ve made to the hot end assembly have been adding more cooling, not more heat. (It’s dual fan now and has better airflow to the heatsink.)
I mean, it could all be due to the bimetallic heatbreak. But, well… 1.0mm is 100% absolutely fine on my 3V2.
So. speaking of cooling… I’ve been floating an idea around for a bit now. Ever play with an airbrush kit (like for painting minis?)
hear me out here. Imagine setting up a plennum pressure chamber fed by an airbrush compressor, then using servos or something to control conic plug valves (as in the airbrush itself.) Now, imagine something similar to a bowden tube running to the hot end from said plenum chamber… directing the air exactly where you want it.
seriously, most the weight of the hot end is now in fans. At least, for me. (heater cooler, nozzle cooler, the other nozzle cooler.)
Imagine how fast we could get with bowden-air… (yeah, I’ll have to work on that name…)