I run 16 Bit Virtual Studios. You can find more reviews from me on YouTube youtube.com/@16bitvirtual or other social media @16bitvirtual, and we sell our 3D Printed stuff on 16bitstore.com

  • 10 Posts
  • 102 Comments
Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: June 16th, 2023

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  • Yeah Fusion is the way to go, especially if you are learning. Lots of hate for it around here, due to Autodesk endlessly changing their policies. But there’s no point in learning the basics when you don’t know if it’s you… or the software.

    But if your issue is just navigating the 3D space in FreeCAD, you can set it such that it’s the same in TinkerCAD/Fusion 360. FreeCAD calls it Revit, and you can set it in the lower right corner. Hold you mouse over it to show tool tips.


  • In my view CAD is always worth learning, especially if you understand what prints best on your printer.

    FreeCAD is basically the worse possible beginners tools. Don’t get me wrong when you learn it, it’s good and comparable to professional CAD software. But the learning curve is dumb.

    Learn the basics first. TinkerCAD is free (from Autodesk) and will get you started. But if you want something which would take you further Fusion360 is fantastic for beginners.

    The workflow of CAD is as follows. Sketch -> Action -> Sketch -> Action. Lets say you want to make a box with a hole in it. Sketch the outer box -> Extrude it -> Sketch the inner box -> Extrude/Cut it.







  • Don’t vote, don’t get to complain.

    Not saying that you have to vote when you dislike the options given. But you do have other options. Like spoiling your ballot, or nullify your ballot.

    Yes the results are the same, but by voting this way, you are actively participating in your democratic process. While not voting at all you are not. And if you do not participate, in my view, you cannot complain about the results.

    Oh and if you don’t know how, on election day just ask the poll workers. They should’ve been trained on how to handle it.






  • When I was in Uni, we had the opportunity to apply for co-op at Black Berry when they still made phones with their own OS.

    I was getting into mobile dev at this time and applied and got an interview.

    I didn’t know what I was expecting but what I got was a 10-20min sales pitch for their phone and I wasn’t asked a question… I don’t think. From what I gathered afterwards they just wanted to hire/rehire one guy and had to interview others to be in the co-op program.

    Believe it or not I wasn’t sold on black berry after that.






  • While the safe bet with Linux is AMD, it’s not like Nvidia or Intel are bad options for Linux. (,running RTX 3050 and 12100f).

    It just depends on your platform and how comfortable you are with tinkering.

    From my testing, Ubuntu based, is the easiest to get up and running while Fedora and arch can take a bit of work.

    For my recommendation, look at the games you wanna run and see what they recommend for hardware. An in general safe bet, 12th gen Intel i3/i5 or 3rd gen Ryzen is a good bet for cheap hardware still in stock in stores or online. Upgrade is good (12-14th on the same socket & 1-5th gen Ryzen on the same socket).

    Graphics cards works on both, and AmD and Nvidia works on Linux, though Nvidia is behind on support, but not by much games will be stable.



  • So if I download a pirate copy, I’m in the clear because I purchased a license.

    Nope since the copy of the software was obtained with someone else’s license. That said this would be hypothetically impossible to prove in court so 🤷

    Circumventing DRM is questionable since I think it’s illegal to distribute but not own. So let’s say you have a CD installer for the Sims and download a crack exe to launch it without the CD. You are in the clear but the host for the download is not.

    GOG or backing the game up yourself is the only way around this.


  • Depends on region… depends on what you want to read… depends on you e-reader.

    For example a kobo or a kindle will only read from kobo and amazon respectively.

    Kobo and Google Play Books is my first stop to shop, since it supports Adobe Digital Editions, along with their own apps.

    Amazon is my second stop. Not because I like them, I’m I. The same boat as you. But believe it or not their encryption is based off of your devices serial number. And you can DeDRM your Kindle books very easily.

    Then it’s from publishers directly if they let you, like J-Novel Club is pricy but they offer drm free books.

    My last option is obscure, but cool if you are looking for a deal. Humble Bundle is where I go for textbooks and older series. Only issue is they sell only in Bundles, and you’d get a lot of stuff you may not necessarily want. But the deals are crazy if you don’t want to pirate.

    Finally depending on value and how much I feel the book is worth, I may sail the high seas.